During my travels through the Rhone Valley I stop in a little village called Cornas known for making Syrah the way it should be made.
I met a young inspiring Sommelier Elodie Zimmermann, who served as my tour guide at Jean Luc Colombo winery. She gave me a tour of the vineyards and we road high above the village of Cornas where Jean Luc Colombo grows some of the best Syarh grapes in the world.
The high elevation the rocky soil and great terrior make for a perfect place to grow world class Syarh.
This village is the heart of Syarh in the Rhone Valley and the name Cornas is Celtic for “burnt earth”,
this is red wine country and is the only area in the Rhone Valley that doesn’t permit white wine to be produced.
Jean Luc Colombo white wines come from St Peray and they are quite good, made with the typical Rhone grape varieties Granach blanc, Roussanne, Marsanne,and Viognier.
I tasted through several of his wines and this is how Syarh should taste gamey, earthy, peppery, and masculine. If you ever get the opportunity to visit the Rhone Valley you must stop by and visit Jean-Luc Colombo winery you will have an outstanding wine experience.
My highly anticipated journey to the Saint-Emilion region in Bordeaux, France, was to begin with a leisurely, three hour train ride from Paris in first-class. Before leaving Paris I stopped by a picturesque wine store and purchased two bottles of the local wines to enjoy on the way. I would quickly realize how fortuitous this purchase was since upon my arrival to Gare De Nrt , I discovered there were no first class seats!
I stood in the galley of the train surveying the cast of characters with whom I would share the first leg of my journey to the southwest of France: There was a retired Scotland Yard police officer, a military officer on home leave, and two other people just traveling home for holiday. Wine is a great communicator …..I offered a glass to all my galley mates, as well as the ticket collector who had been the bearer of the first-class-bad news, and thus started our journey, in true Buggs’ style!
Needless to say, once the retired police officer learned that I had just retired from the FBI after 22 years of service, we would have a very interesting conversation that allowed the three hours to pass relatively quickly! The delicious wine from southern France purchased from the local market in Paris would also help.
Finally, as we approached our destination , I asked the officer’s advice on how to travel from the train station to my hotel in Saint-Emilion. He was happy to direct me to the trolley that travels around the city…what he neglected to point out was that it stops running at 6pm and I would find myself at the train station at 7pm sharp.
As we pulled into the station, I was reminded of the movie “They Call Me Mr. Tibbs”, when Mr. Tibbs gets off the train in Mississippi back in the day. …. I seemed to be entirely alone at the station. The conductor had suggested a taxi, a normal suggestion in any other circumstance, but since there is only ONE taxi in Saint-Emilion and he was otherwise occupied far away in Bordeaux, I could sense that things were about to get interesting. Finally I called the Hotel receptionist in the likely event that they might have a vehicle available. I was told that no car was available but it was a short mile and a half and I should walk.
As an ex-athlete and wine appreciator, I thought this might be a grand idea….I felt up for a little exercise after the long train ride, and the opportunity to fully appreciate the beauty of the great city of Saint-Emilion. Sort of like killing two birds with one stone, so to speak! Perhaps it was the wine or perhaps the exhilaration of having arrived at my first destination….or perhaps even the anticipation of the comforts of my hotel at the end of the day, either way, my optimism quickly diminished when reality set in: I had a 50 pound suitcase, a backpack and two bottles of the best Champagne I had ever tasted (pictures will be enclosed), when I realized the road ahead was entirely uphill, AND made of cobblestones so deep that the wheels of my suitcase were already in protest!
Stage one of my uphill journey: I set out with a determined enthusiasm…..only to discover that I had charged off in the wrong direction. I turned around, crossed the railroad tracks again and started off again, enthusiasm level dipping only slightly. Several cars would pass me during this time and I have to admit that I was hoping – no ! even counting on – the great French hospitality toward foreigners, and ready to accept a ride even if it were by mule. But I was a black man, at night, clearly in distress and sweating profusely, but no cars, bikes or mules even slowed down for me! Despite my predicament, I couldn’t help notice the great Chateaux of Saint-Emilion in the distance and I was at least appreciative for the scenic view!
My hotel was located in the center of town, or so I thought. Upon arrival, I didn’t see my hotel immediately but did notice a Pizza establishment with some lights on that seemed to be open. I asked (in my best French –not) where this hotel was located, and in his best English (not) he pointed up the hill. All I could think of was, “NO WAY”! So started the second part of my walk….to the highest point in the town, rumbling along on the antique cobblestones….
As I mentioned earlier, I am an ex-athlete, and as such, I am aware of my physical limitations and how that can be stretched to the end by the power of the mind. Gone were the romantic thoughts of the sommelier…..this was an endurance test, requiring motivation, drive, and control. I was reminded of a quote from one of our great American Generals, “If you are going through hell, keep going”. As I had absolutely no other options, I completed this walk on sheer will power.
In closing, I was so determined to experience the true greatness and history of this wine region that this experience was but a bump on the ole cobblestone road. I finally met my friends from South Africa at the hotel, who had incidentally arrived by (my) taxi from the Bordeaux Airport. My trip was worth every step that I took to reach Saint- Emilion. I visited several great wineries including Chateau Angelus, Chateau Figeac, and Chateau Chatelet and I enjoyed the great cuisine of this wine region. And I discovered once again that perseverance pays!
Perrier Louet Belle Epoque, what a great Champagne
Nicolas Feuillatte Palmes D’Or WOW
Chateau Figac
Top of my journey, the highest point in St Emilion
Thaddeus was one lucky guy last month, traversing France like a oenophile on a mission! He ate, drank and was merry for all of us and jotted some notes to share–and to make us jealous!
Here’s his trek through Champagne–both the region and the sparkling stuff:
My journey began on Oct. 15 when I arrived in Reims, France. I rented a car and drove to a lovely little B&B in the heart of Reims. The next day I drove to the village of Vertus home on Duval Leroy Champagne and tasted through various champagnes that were outstanding, Duval Leory has always been one of my favorite Champagne houses over the years.
The House of Krug in my opinion, is the best juice ever made! We tasted through vintages from 1998 to 2007 and all were amazing. The 2000 vintage was exceptional with such lively acidity that jumped out of the glass.
The next day was a magical one, starting at GH Mumm, where there 25 million bottles underground and eight different styles of Champagnes made. Some 50% of its wines are exported to the U.S. Mumm has an underground museum that chronologically takes you through the art of making Champagne from the very early days. The visit concluded with a GH Mumm two-Star Michelin Chef preparing a legendary lunch in the vineyard at the windmill, overlooking the vineyard. Much thanks to GH Mumm, Agnes and our tour guide Claudette Legrand.
Then there is the 200-year-old Champagne house Perrier Jouêt. WOW!it is located in the heart of Epenany on Champagne Boulevard. The visit began with Ivan, a young historian who was extremely knowledgeable about the historical background of Perrier Jouêt, and how the art work is relevant to the history of this great estate. The tour and tasting were incredible, and the evening concluded with a five-star dinner with my long time friend Agnes Jones. The Champagnes we tasted during the visit and dinner were simply outstanding starting with there Grand Burt, which is its largest seller. The vintage Belle Epoque Rose and Brut the creamy texture on the palate with the lively acidity were remarkable.
The end of all ends were the Belle Epoque Blanc de Blanc. This Champagne sets the bench mark for what a great Champagne should taste like. In short, it was perfect.
Next I traveled to Nicolas Feuillattte, the largest producer of Champagne on my visit. It is part of 85 different co-ops of about 400 champagnes. The tour was conducted my Alex and she was very knowledgeable about how this huge operation works so efficiently. The tasting was conducted by David Henault, who has produced 12 different Champagnes for Nicolas over the past six years and is responsible for 100 different Champagnes for the co-op.
He took me through the various Champagnes, of which the Blue label brut reserve is its No. 1-selling champagne. David makes a rose and Brut that’s aged in oak barrels. The cuveé 225 Brut and rose are truly outstanding and show the depths of his wine-making ability.
The tasting didn’t stop there. I was fortunate enough to taste thie high-end ’04 and ’95 Palmes dí Or Rose and brut. Wow! This is the best terrior-specific 100% Pinot Rose I’ve ever tasted and the Palmes di OR was simply amazing.
Looks aren’t everything but…. the gorgeous contemporary label contains a refreshingly crisp beautiful well balanced wine with grassy notes . Loved it’s upfront tropical bouquet followed by a luxurious finish . For an inexpensive white I found this to be a most pleasant surprise. I look forward to summer nights with friends enjoying this wine.
Albariño De Fefiñanes 2011 $25.95
Ok call me old fashioned and easy but this was my favorite of the day.
I love the classic label design of the family palace. Old vines produce a fruity fresh crisp lively wine with low refreshing acidity, with more minerality that was round and lush on the palate. An elegant indulgence in my mind no doubt and worth every penny.
When I got my Vision Cellars wine shipment recently, I immediately jumped into a glass of the 2010 Sonoma County pinot noir, a grape winemaker Mac McDonald is looking to perfect into one of California’s best versions of the wine. In the 15 years that he’s been at it for his own winery, he’s won awards and accolades for the bright flavors and natural acidity he’s bottling. The 2010 Sonoma County version is no exception — and I wish I had not been so anxious to dig into it. Who knows what a few years in the cellar might have done to it.
It brought back the sweet memories of our sunny afternoon picnic — Mac’s fabulous at the grill too! — with Mac and his wife Lil last summer. Mac insists his father, a guy named Sue, was among the best moonshiners in all of Texas in The Day. He tells the story with pride and a bit of humor, laced with quips that only a true Southerner can come up with. And he fits the small-town boy part as well as he spins the yarns in his usual overalls and straw hat attire.
He also claims that his first taste of wine at the ripe of old age of 12 was a 1952 burgundy that put him on the path to winemaking. “I never tasted anything so good and I knew then that I wanted to make a wine as fine as that,” he said last summer.
That was in 1955 and why only a few short years later he went west to California and learned his craft from one of the best: the Wagner family, makers of the wine that put me on the path to wine drinking, Caymus. “Mr. Wagner was kind enough to help a black man with no winemaking experience at all become a winemaker,” he said.
He buys the best grapes he can find from some of California’s most notable growers, Garys’ Vineyard and Rosella’s Vineyard in Santa Lucia Highlands. Check out his website at VisionCellars.com for a list of wines. Wine club members only get access to Ms. Lil’s Vineyard, which Mac, naturally, named after his wife of 45 years.
It was a beautifully sunny and brisk afternoon when we visited the sprawling Caprai vineyards in Montefalco in late January. It was only days before a once-every-two-decades snowstorm halted movement across Italy but we could still stand outside at the base of the vineyards in as winemaker extraordinaire Marco Arnaldo took us on our first journey into what makes the Sagrantino grape, and Umbrian wines overall, special.
He should know. He manages the 41-year-old family business and has been at the forefront of cutting edge research into new Sagrantino clones, in what he calls the “fruitful collaboration,” with the University of Milan, since 1988. What he has spearheaded is every grape’s dream: a spot on the top indigenous varietals in Italy.
This was the still the beginning of our adventure in Italy for the International Wine
Marco spoiled us with this fabulous Sagrantino that he has perfected early on in our Umbrian adventure.
and Tourism Conference and Marco spoiled us with the 25 Anni, a Sagrantino so named in celebration of the estate’s 25th anniversary in 1996 for its first vintage, 1993.
We didn’t realize then that 25 Anni was a pure-varietal Sagrantino that is as dark and perfect of an native grape as you could find in Umbria, and specifically in Montefalco. It’s deep ruby to purple in color and screams of blackberry and dark plum aromas with a smooth vanilla undertone. Thaddeus raved about the grape – and Marco’s wine rendition of it – for weeks after the trip. “On the palate, the tannins were like a vice grip with that dark fruit and just the slightest hint of pepper,” he said. “It’s a light pepper, not even quite white, but just enough to let you know it’s there.”
With such a strong tannin finish, this was a wine that could hold its own on its own. Marco said it should be aged for 10 to 15 years, but easily can withstand 20 years.
We were also big fans of the Lungarotti 2007, a fine expression itself of the grape that has given Umbria yet another reason to shine.
Have to give a shout out to the Arnaldo-Caprai extra virgin olive oil I’ve been craving for oh so many months now. It was the greatest addition to a number of mid winter meals, particularly the soups we learned how to make in Italy!
