Category Archives: Red Wine

South African Wine Country 2011

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caption=”De Toren owner Emil den Dulk’s philosophy on winemaking.”]De Toren owner Emil den Dulk's philosophy on winemaking.[/caption]“The Truth is in the Vine”
That’s the philosophy of Emil den Dulk, an affable, hands-on owner of the De Toren Private Cellar, one of South Africa’s unique cultivars where farming practices that are environmentally friendly are a must.
Adding to its mystique, De Toren only makes two wines: De Toren Fusion V and De Toren Z. De Toren V is a world-class bordeaux blend, mostly of cabernet sauvignon and cabernet franc, that exemplifies some of the best clarets in Bordeaux. And yes, this is coming out of South Africa, in the Stellenbosch wine region. He boasts of making this French-style blend that incorporates all five bordeaux grapes, which also include merlot, petit verdot and malbec.
Here’s what makes this wine so special and what distinguishes its production out of Stellenbosch and not Bordeaux, according to Thaddeus. “The wine has a great composition of fruit and tannin structure with the cab franc playing a very vital role. The tannins were firm, thanks to the fruit’s profile — black currant, licorice and tobacco — and its strong integration with French and American oaks, which it hangs in for 12 months, allowing it to age well.
Emil den Dulk, owner of De Toren Private Cellar in Stellenbosch, South Africa This is a value wine at its best — $45 for a wine that would cost at least twice that if it came out of France.
De Toren’s Z is the little brother to the V — zippier, more refreshing wine with softer tannins more integrated into the fruits that make it drinkable now.

Here’s a bonus: Driefonte nin Shiraz 2004 — It’s a Rhone blend that Emil is collaborating with a Frenchman still in the experiment stages. Thaddeus found it to be “typical” of a Rhone-blended wine with dark fruit that had spice and licorice with black currant. The finish had structure with hints of white pepper and great potential. And if there’s a downside, it’s the alcohol level at 14.3%.
P.S. Thaddeus got to taste barrel samples of malbec and petite verdot that he says are as good as any single-barrel varietal that he’s ever tasted and would make great wines on their own.

Thelema Mountain Vineyards

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Thelema Mountain Vineyards got its start in 1983 when the Webb family bought a run-down fruit farm outside of Stellenbosch, South Africa. The property was vineless until the family planted 50 hectares of chardonnay, sauvignon blanc, riesling, muscat de frontignan, cabernet and merlot grapes. The Wine Spectator has twice listed Thelema as the top 100 wines of the world.
Muscat de Frontignan 2010, not surprisingly a fresh wine, has an incredibly fragrant scent, with an orange peel finish.
The Merlot Reserve 2008 was Thaddeus’ top gun for the merlots he tasted in South Africa. He described it as “beautiful” with a well-balanced fruit, acidity and tannin that had a surprisingly complex finish.
Cabernet Sauvignon 2008 was a riot of blackberry and black currant; of course, deep ruby in color, that left melted chocolate and a hint of cedar to make for a complex wine with great tannin structure that gripped your palate and wouldn’t let go at the finish. A secure spot on the top 10 of South African wines by Thaddeus’ tastings.

Oh that Pride Cabernet Sauvignon…

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Thaddeus says – and admits upfront he’s been a fan for a very long time – that he was hit with a bouquet of dark cherry and herbalness on the nose. We walked him through a number of spices but it was tough for him to tap it at such an early stage. He loved the taste: a sweet black cherry with good acidity and a solid tannin structure to finish.

Jennifer says (and she spent a little more time with the wine) that when it was first opened the spices were not only indistinguishable – it was a broad whiff of eucalyptus and really smoky – but overwhelming. But as the wine unwound, the spice took a subtle retreat and it turned into a smooth blackberry coating the tongue and laced with just a bit of chocolate licorice. The tannins were strong at the onset, but settled down too to mix extraordinarily well with the dark fruits and the coffee flavor that emerged. Since it was Halloween week and she had some candy (for the Trick or Treaters, of course) in the house, she couldn’t resist pairing it with a Reese’s peanut butter cup. The chocolate, not surprisingly, was intensified. And the peanut butter? Well, who knew faux pb could taste so good?

Consentino Napa Valley 2005 Cabernet

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Consentino Napa Valley Cabernet 2005

Consentino Napa Valley Cabernet 2005


Jennifer says this cab is a rich blackberry with a touch of cassis and an herbal essence that only a good cab franc can produce. There’s a sweet, woodsy presence, thanks to 30 months in French oak barrels. It’s soft to the palate with a nice finish that flirts with your tongue.
Thaddeus says this has a nose of sweet plum with black currant bursting in. On the palate is a blackberry/dark cherry fruit. It’s very complex and approachable at this point and ready to drink.
This wine was produced in Yountville, Calif., and is a cabernet sauvignon with a blend of cabernet franc and merlot.

Chateau Beychevelle tasting in Hong Kong

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Chateau Beychevelle 2007

Chateau Beychevelle 2007


It was a late-night tasting in Hong Kong at the Sheraton Wineroom in Kowloon where I had my first experience with several vintages of Chateau Beychevelle. The 17th century Chateau Beychevelle is in the southwestern part of France in the Pauillac-St. Julien region, known, of course, for its famous bordeaux wines.
General Manager Phillipe Blanc talked details of the 2001, 2006 and 2007 cabernet-based bordeaux, sharing the characteristics of the wine and specifics of the terroir — a gravel, sandy soil set in gradual slopes.
The Chateau Beychevelle St. Julien 2007, a blackberry and cherry fruit wine with a hint of currants, was a very complex, well-structured wine with good acidity and excellent tannins. This wine will age well for many years. Of all the tastings that night, this one was the best.
The Chateau Beychevelle 2006 was ready to drink now with good structure and depth. A classy wine by most standards.
The Chateau Beychevelle 2001 gives you an idea of how well these wines will mature. The nose had an impeccable bouquet of sweet cherry with good acidity and tannins, confirming ’01’s status as a prime vintage.
Learning about Chateau Beychevelle from Phillipe Blanc was a plus to the great tastings. A visit to the winery is high on the list of places to see!

French Wines from Chateauneuf-du-Pape and Tavel

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Thaddeus went to what he called an “an outstanding wine event” recently that focused on the best wines from the south France. Of course, Chateaunef-du-Pape was a standout and the ’07 will be a great vintage.
The grenache — the workhorse of the wine — had a big, ripe raspberry fruit with excellent spice and acidity. “This fruit was really ripe and juicy, with an acidity that vibrated softly on your palate,” he said.
Hermitage, the wine, is named after the small area is the Rhone valley, which — surprise, surprise — is called Hermitage. The only grape grown there is syrah and Hermitage, the wine, is 100% syrah. The vines face the southern sky to help produce this very classy red wine with acidity and the classic pepper finish. His favorite that night: the 2007 Ferraton Pere et Fils Hermitage.
Then there was the Armagnac from Marquis de Montesquiou. It’s pricey, for sure, but will cost you less than a very good cognac. He tasted through the portfollio and, of course, the 70-year-old Montesquiou Armagnac was complex with a bouquet of honey and vanilla with a smooth finish.
For summer — yes, we know it’s sadly over and a little late — there are few things better than a great rose from Tavel. Thaddeus call this the best place in the world for rose wines. Period. Domaine La Genestiere rose ’09 was the standout of this tasting because it was juicy, good acidity and finished with some spice. What a great summer wine….for next year! Enjoy!